A french classic, this wonderfully rich and crispy potatoes gratin recipe can made with duck fat or butter.

A french classic, this wonderfully rich and crispy potatoes gratin recipe can made with duck fat or butter.

Have you heard? (Of course you have.) Frozen water is going to fall on the Northeast and only those with adequate reserves of milk and bread will survive! New York City is on the fringe of the blizzard, so we may see only a few inches. But, rest assured, I am devoting all my free time to hoping for snow measured in feet, and a cozy weekend spent cooking and watching it pile up. Snow, especially lots of it, is magical here in the city. All the noise stops. All the trash and dog shit and chicken bones are covered by a clean white blanket, and the city feels cleansed, even if only for a moment. [Read more…]
By Brian 7 Comments
A classic croque monsieur recipe with all the richness and complexity of Dijon, Gruyere, and ham, plus a bit of spinach (to balance out all that butter). And a few tales from Brian’s days waiting tables at a French restaurant in a small southern city. Jump to recipe.
Blood orange and kumquat add bright, bracing notes of citrus to an otherwise earthy kale and farro salad. Jump to recipe. [Read more…]
By Brian 19 Comments

Observing a person’s cake preferences is akin to peering into the very depths of their soul. Some people, for instance, appear to be impressed by a cake that is covered in impenetrable layers of marzipan has had the hands of about twenty bakers on it and looks very much like a 2013 Chevrolet Camaro. Some people will spend thousands of dollars on a cake like this and others will watch television shows about bakers who make such cakes. Those people–people who prefer the artifice of a well-decorated cake to the taste–are alien to me, not the least for the amount of time they have to waste. Spending hours making a cake look like a golf bag makes as much sense as spending the same time trying to make a golf bag taste like a cake. A cake is for eating, people! [Read more…]